I've been spending the past few days locked in battle with the mold trying to encroach upon my living quarters. While I was in Rabat, the rains came again, even more fierce than the last time. Everywhere in Morocco has seen unprecedented rains this winter, but we in the Souss Valley were among the hardest hit. Everyone says this is a record rainfall for at least the past 50 years. To my east, helicopters swooped in to evacuate a village of mud houses that had collapsed back into the source from which they came. To my west, the road to Taroudant was closed for days because a long-dry riverbed, far below, had overshot its banks. Farther north, as you may have seen on the news, the minaret collapsed at a mosque in Meknes, killing 41 people. From the Mediterranean to the Atlantic to here in the Dirty South, homes have been washed clean away.
The desert soil doesn't know what to do with all this rain in such a short time, leading to flooding. More than a week after the storms, lakes of standing water remain dotted around my site; at their height they had people wading to their waists, trying to evacuate animals and automobiles. The past few days of heavy sunshine have done their best to shrink those muddy waterways, but it showered this morning, and the forecast calls for several rainy days again this week. I can feel the moisture in the air, inside and out ~ warm and damp, tropical.
The uninsulated walls of homes here hold the damp in nicely, leading to mold and, eventually, cracks and deterioration. Windows and doors are too swollen to shut properly. The walls of my dar chebab classroom are covered in black plaguelike spots. So are my host family's. I thought I'descaped, but a few days ago I recognized that earthy smell, and in the morning my bamboo shelves, home to my clothes and personal items, were coated in white, beardlike fuzz. Out came the bleach and a fan (it's probably sending those spores somewhere they shouldn't go, but I really need to get things dried out, and it's the only option.) Days later, I'm still wiping off the mold several times a day ~ and this morning discovered a new one, pink mold on my bedroom walls.
Still. My home is standing, victim neither to flooding nor earthquakes. Everyone I love is alive and accounted for. I don't wonder where I'll sleep tonight or whether my home will hold up. The earth is holding firm (if muddy) beneath my feet. A couple of moldy bookshelves? Big deal.
Speaking of natural disasters, people here are deeply concerned about the people of Haiti, especially, and now of Chile and elsewhere. My neighborhood knows from earthquakes. Fifty years ago this month was the zelzla, the devastating earthquake that flattened the city of Agadir, about an hour west of here. Watching the news with Kabira the other day, I saw amazing historical footage of the aftermath ~ very like Haiti, in fact. The city is long since rebuilt as a booming tourist destination for Europeans. The nondescript whitewashed highrises may be built to last, but they lack the charm of the "real" Morocco. May Haiti manage to both rebuild itself better and simultaneously keep its individual personality.
Went to the dar chebab fully expecting my bac class not to show, being the middle of a three-day holiday and all. But even the slow days are mini-adventures. I found myself being serenaded by three young singer/guitarists practicing their set list ~ a mellow, gorgeous combination of Arabic and western tunes. Never seen these kids before in my life, to my knowledge; no idea why they'd set up practicing in my classroom, but it was lovely to sit and journal and plan next week's lessons with my own private, live soundtrack. They were quiet (aside from their beautiful harmonies), respectful toward me, quietly proud to answer my questions.
I wondered if in fact our paths ever have crossed before ~ if these gentle souls had ever been in the many groups of teenage boys who like to laugh, point and jeer whenever I pass by, trying to get my goat. (Side note to self: "Get my goat" ~ a good idiom for next week's class.) Would they treat me so respectfully next time we meet, after our mutual music appreciation?
After about half an hour of my mini music festival, one lone high school senior wandered in ~ Mohamed, one of my top English students, as close to fluent as anyone I've met in town. I know my classes are usually too simple for him, so it's always nice to have a chance to simply chat, let him practice his conversation skills. The talk left me a little sad. He's in the science "track" at the high school ~ early on, students have to opt between the science/math or literature tracks, and Mohamed now feels keenly that he chose the "wrong" path. He loves to read and wants to write; science, he says, bores him. Is it really too late to change, I asked ~ can't he decide to take literature classes at university? No, he said. Too late. A student's future is determined by a decision made at the middle-school level.
You know, I broached, there are many scholarship opportunities to study in the United States, or in English-language universities around the world, schools that would challenge his intellect and encourage his talents. Of all my students, Mohamed is the only one I think would truly stand a chance at such a scholarship.
No, I can't, he said, scrunching up his face and waving his hand, indicating the distance, the vast divide between there and heare.
Oh, I understand, I said, nodding. I miss my family so much.
Mohamed corrected me. He'd love to study abroad, but his family would never go for it. They're sending him to a two-year school in Agadir to learn about construction, then he'll be able to come back and help support his family. That's more education than many of his friends will get. Work is valued more than education in this culture, he said, turning his hands up in his lap in that universal whaddayagonnado gesture.
Down he was, this lanky tall boy with the wispy mustache of a budding adolescent. I changed the subject, asking after his family. His sister has agreed to be married. What good news, I congratulated him. Yeah, it's a good thing, he said ~ she's 26, too old in this culture. Another sigh. People here ~ it's not right, he said, interrupting himself. A boy sees a girl in the street, he asks someone, "Where does she live?" His family visits hers, then they are engaged, then in one, two months the wedding.
But that's changing, isn't it? I pushed him. He nodded, but halfheartedly. He wanted to be down on things, a typical teenage boy anywhere.
On the up side, I got to teach him the very American term senioritis, diagnosing him with a bad case of it. And I got my first invitation to next summer's wedding season.
In other news.
The women's health workshop we were to lead this weekend has been delayed. The grant was approved at the last minute, but we won't get the cash for a few weeks. That conflicts with spring camps at the end of March. Most volunteers will be involved in more than two dozen English immersion camps around the country during the spring break from public schools; two of us involved in the health workshop are coordinating camps in our region. So look for a litany of camp experiences at the end of March, and the success story of our road to women's health in late April.
My trip to Rabat, this time around, was for the thrice-annual meeting of the Gender and Development Committee ~ GAD. Eight members, one representing each training group of each sector, discuss ways to promote projects and outlooks that take local gender dynamics into account. I always come away so inspired and enthused after these meetings. We took a field trip to Association Democratique des Femmes du Maroc, an organization that does amazing work promoting legal and social equality for Moroccan women, as well as helping victims of domestic abuse; they seem interested in collaborating in some way, so maybe we can help them connect with women in the more rural communities Peace Corps serves. I was elected to a second term as GAD vice-chair, and our new chair Cortney reported progress on a fantastic project that started as a simple plan to film some successful Moroccan women and has blossomed into a new NGO support network spearheaded by some of those success stories.
Quotes of the day.
"There is a river flowing now, very fast. It is so great and swift that there are those who will be afraid. They will try to hold onto the shore; they will feel they are being torn apart and will suffer greatly. Know the river has its destination. The elders say we must let go of the shore, push off into the middle of the river, keep our eyes open and our heads above water. And I say, see who is there with you, and celebrate." ~ traditional Hopi wisdom
"There's a crack in everything. That's how the light gets in." ~ Leonard Cohen, "Anthem" (thanks, Cheri!)
Currently celebrating: Peace Corps Week, starting Monday
Currently reading: "American Travel Writing 2009,"Simon Winchester, editor; "Morocco: The Islamist Awakening and Other Challenges,"Marvine Howe
Currently listening to: Lots of Sondre Lerche, the Gossip, Leonard Cohen and a new find, Alexi Murdoch